We returned at three to pick up our car and to our surprise we got a bigger car than we had paid for which had plenty of room for our bags in the boot and much needed leg space. We were imagining a tiny Citroen with the third person in the backseat crammed in with their luggage on top of them.
We set off driving like true Italians. We were told to be a good driver you have to be a bad driver. Polignano-a-Mare and Monopoli was our first stop along the way where we had lunch at this lovely sandwich place before checking out the restaurant on the cliff side with the stunning views. Unfortunately we did not eat here as the prices were exorbitant which you would expect. Instead we just took photos along with everyone else. We explored the town a little bit absorbing in the atmosphere before returning to our car which the meter had expired. We also met Sherilyn back at the car who had gone to find her lost phone only to find it had been in the car. Phew.
We continued on stopping at Monopoli which was on the to do list for it is an original fishing village with the fishing wharfs still being active today. We were driving around the pokey streets where we stumbled upon a nice clothes and bag shop where we yelled stop to our driver so the ladies could go and explore. We then cooled off with a Gelato heading back through the tiny streets stalling in the middle of the intersection as we were still getting used to the car with impatient Italians tooting. It sure was entertaining. It was rather funny in the cafe where we purchased our Gelato there was a sign saying that there were no Pokemon's here.
We arrived in Lecce to our Art BnB accommodation to find no one was answering the door bell on the street. We waited awhile until someone was leaving so we decided to let ourselves in and climbed the four floors. We banged on the door only to find no-one was answering the door also. Stuck in the stairwell eventually a guest who was also staying there answered the door and let us in. So we made ourselves at home, found the wifi code and rung the owner from inside his house. When we had made contact it turned out that we had passed him on the street and he was in fact waiting for us to arrive. He was so lovely and welcoming. He did go and speak to the other people about letting us in as we could have been anyone really. We also said to each other as soon as we were let in Man we could have been anyone and the other guest just let us in without really asking us anything. Because of our late lunch we didn't have tea instead decided on an early night in and had a cup of tea from the assortment that was available.
We woke up after a refreshed sleep although Dalt had been up all night sick possibly due to something he had eaten so was feeling a bit under the weather. However our breakfast was laid out for us with the fresh Broiche and Caffee. Broiche was special for this region. We then packed up and left, stopping briefly at a Pharmacy. Rather interesting service you arrive and in the entrance you take a number for that machine and then wait with the rest of the customers until your number is displayed on the screen.
We drove into the centre of Lecce and walked around the streets. It was rather warm low 30's. At least it wasn't humid so it was pleasant.
We stopped at Roca Vecchia as we had heard about the hole in the rock for swimming which we have seen stunning photos of. So we luckily found a close park and stopped at Grotta della poesia where we changed into our togs and joined the rest of the Italians jumping into the swimming hole. It was rather refreshing after being in the heat.
We then followed the GPS towards Otranto which took us on all the wrong streets through the town which were so narrow, the car fitted but only just. Also when I previously mentioned about 'impatient Italians' this really is an understatement. Even when they can see you are turning, or parking or waiting at the round-about they have their hands on the horn and then their arms in the air as if what is going on?!!.
We arrived in Otranto which a cute little place on the sea side. We had a late lunch here and were going to continue on driving further south however our driver was still feeling ill so we decided to head to our accommodation in Veglie, another BnB. We arrived to this town and again the GPS took us on all these random streets which weren't heading in the direction of our accommodation so we decided to stop listening to it and follow our nose as well as getting Sherilyn to map us. We arrived to this beautiful Piazza and where we were staying was just off to the left of this behind a gate and through a beautiful gardened courtyard entrance. We met the owner who took us through a more private gate to our accommodation which had a more quaint patio with grape vines, hanging plants. Perfect for a garden lover.
We then rested in our accommodation. While Dalt slept, Sherilyn and I wondered around the cute little town heading towards the supermarket to get some fruit for tea as we were still full from our late lunch. It was a true little Italian town without another tourist insight. Locals watched in ?word? at these two girls roaming around their neighbourhood. We found the supermarket and it was interesting to see all the different things and the cheaper prices of food than back home. We returned to our Piazza to find that this is the local hang out for all the locals. They pour into the Piazza and hang out in clusters talking and sitting around. Such an amazing experience really. I tried to get a few photos subtly to capture this.
We returned home and worked on the blog in the gardened patio and researched for our time in Milan before retiring to bed.
Thursday we awoke to the most amazing breakfast.. All local pastries provided by the hosts as well as a cappuccino and homemade fruit juice. Some even made by the host herself. We can definitely understand why this place has a rating of 9.8 on Trip advisor awarded in 2015.
We decided to start our journey where we left off yesterday as we were this far south it did make sense and we would have always regretted it I think if we didn't. So we drove to Otranto and joined onto the coast rode which we would have continued down yesterday if Dalt wasn't feeling sick. Also by starting this on a new day I think we enjoyed it more and didn't feel pressured about getting to our accommodation which we would have it we had done this yesterday.
The photos from now are just south of Otranto following the coast road. It is a very narrow windy road and lots of uneven surfaces so in places having to watch out for little pot holes or where the road suddenly becomes the curb.
Santa Cesarea Terme is a little cliff side village that we passed through with a Turkish looking building.
We found the olive groves in terraces rather interesting.
Below is Leuca which we drove around for about an hour around the tiny streets with all the other hundreds of people. Our GPS wanting to take us up this road that had a row of cars parked and only room for a wee smart car. So alas we had to reverse back onto the road we ad previously come on and push our way back into the stream of traffic. Below is the view from the lighthouse where the two seas meet. The Adriatic and the Ionian Seas. We were wondering if we would be able to visibly see the difference in colours or some sign of the two different seas meeting however we could not.
Leuca which is the furthest point on Italian's Stiletto and further East than Vienna. We stopped at a few locations on the way and wanted to swim at the Maldive de Salento. However when we arrived we saw that you had to pay for parking and the beaches looked unpleasantly packed so we decided to continue on driving and came across a little town and stumbled across a street that had free parking and was within a few meters of the beach.
After our swim we wanted to visit a town on an island called Gallipoli which was on the way back to Veglie. We drove around the island thinking that we might be able to get a park however soon as we passed the bridge there were signs saying no parking except for authorize vehicles only. There was only one way to get off the island which was take the lovely scenic road (one way) around the whole island. We enjoyed this from our air conditioned car.
We decided to try the local specialty for this area which is ice cream with chopped nuts, fruit and some liqueur taste in the center of it. We did enquire about getting this takeaway to have while wondering the streets however we were told that this is a desert to savour which is something we were glad we did. It was delicious. The traditional flavor is chocolate and hazelnut which is what Sherilyn and Dalton got and I got the Pistacchio and Hazelnut. There was also a dark chocolate and cream one also. We enjoyed this with the espresso on ice while people watching which was rather interesting.
After our ice-cream we visited the cathedral and an underground Olive press. Which was rather interesting. It explained the process the oil was made and the different purposes for oil. E.g for the lamps back in the old days.
As we arrived back at our accommodation it was all fenced off for some event and we had to ask to be let through otherwise we would have had to park ages away and walk to our accommodation. However we spoke to someone who reluctantly let us back through however the condition was that once we were in there was no way they would let us out that evening.
In our wee Piazza which is just outside our front gate they were setting up stages and stalls and we wondered what was going on the night before. However tonight they were having a local festival right on our door step with all the local food from the area. We were so lucky that this was happening while we were staying here and were able to taste four of the local dishes. Ciceri e tria (Pasta with fried pasta and chickpeas in a while sauce), Orecchiette which is also known as little ears because of the shape. This was served with a tomato sauce. Pittule which is little fried dough balls. We had some plain and some with onion. Lastly we tried Carne Rustata which was the name of the stall but it was hotdogs served in a bread roll. All very delicious. All very cheap. You pay 10 Euro for four tickets and then you go to the stall you want and 'pay for that item' using one ticket. Which means that they stall doesn't handle any money. So it worked out each item was 2.50 Euros however very generous amounts and was enough for the three of us.
There was also live entertainment, for example a boy playing the trumpet and local music from the area and dancers. We were the only tourists there. It was clearly a local event. We retired to bed rather late.
Breakfast this morning we had more pastries. Upon inquiring about them with the owner, she said she gets up at 4am each morning to make these for her guests. We were the only 'English' group they have hosted. Mostly Italians, French and Spanish. They didnt know any English also, so having Sherilyn here was great.
We packed up and heading a beach area called Punta Prosciutto. Sherilyn had recommended this to us as she had been here before however warned us of the thousands of others that would be there also. Unbeknown to us, Dalton had done a google satellite view of the beach and looked for the areas that were less dense in terms of sun umbrellas which is where we headed. When we arrived it was less busy and we had a large area of the beach. The previous time Sherilyn had been there it was so packed that the next persons beach towel was touching yours and you had to watch where you stepped as you made your way to the sea.
We stayed there for a couple of hours before walking back to the car. On the beaches I forget to mention there are immigrants who want to sell you items. Glasses, sarongs blow up beach toys, hats etc. We went to a wee supermarket to get some snacks for lunch but we arrived just as they were closing for their siesta. They let us continue and closed up when we had finished however. It is so annoying and frustrating this siesta business as it is always at a time we want to have a late lunch or buy a drink from the supermarket however everything shuts down and usually reopens around 3pm. When you are driving through towns it is almost like a ghost town where there is no one around and the shops are almost un-recognisable as a big garage door slides down over the shop windows.
We headed to a wee pottery village which we weren't planning on visiting however we really loved the pottery that our breakfast was served on at our BNB and the lady told us about this place. However we were arriving as there siesta began and there was only one pottery shop that remained open to Dalton's delight. The pottery at this place was rather expensive so we just browsed. We wondered around some of the streets making our next stop at Taranto.
We walked around this old town and stopped to have a look at the castle there. To our surprise there was a free guided tour which was run by the Navy but it was starting at four pm which meant that we had a 50 minute wait. We all agreed that while we are here we might as well do it and it is free. So we went to find somewhere that was open to get a coffee and a gelato. We searched and searched and in the end we ended up asking someone who pointed us in the direction of this tiny cafe. We ordered a coffee on ice the same as what we had yesterday which was refreshing. However out come this spectacular looking coffee which had coffee froth as well. I am not sure how they made it or however many shots of espresso but it was strong. Even a teaspoon of the froth was enough to wake you up.
We went back to the tour which ended up not being in English and to our surprise with about 100 other people. Rather a huge group which we found to be too big really. We were being translated for by Sherilyn. it was interesting to see. The tour was meant to be for around 50 minutes but went for well over an hour.
After this we headed to Alberobello where we were staying in a cute wee Trullo. It is a quaint wee town made-up of many Trulli. You cant really explain it and its the only place in the world like it.
The Trullo we stayed in was rather small with the whole toilet bowl folding up into the unit to make room so we could have a shower.
We went out for dinner however couldn't find anywhere that had a table for three. They were all booked out from reservations. We were getting pretty hangry at this time and would settle for just about anything. It was only by chance as we were walking up a steep street I looked down on the area below to find a pizza place that had a few spare tables. It was a pizza eatery with about 4 pages of pizzas to choose from. We ended up waiting about an hour and a half until our pizzas arrived finishing our dinner about 1030 in the evening. But this seems to be the norm for Italians to be eating at this time.
We retired to bed as we were pretty tired. Sherilyn was staying just down the road from us as our accommodation could not fit a third person. It was pretty crammed as it was.
Our breakfast was included but they did not serve it on the grounds so they gave us both a voucher to go to the restaurant across the road where we got a coffee and a croissant.
We packed up and met Sherilyn at the car where we then walked to the Trulli Museum which you could have a wonder around. It is the largest Trullo in this area - a two storey one. We walked there only to find it was closed. We visited inside the Church that was there as well before leaving Alberobello heading for Locorotondo. This is apparently the most beautiful part of Puglia. We would have to agree with the stunning scenery and the grape vines, as per the photos.
We then headed for Bari allowing plenty of time in case we encountered any traffic. Just out of Alberobello the traffic was slow however we had traffic alerts on our GPS as well as on Sherilyn's maps also which would have put another 40mins onto our journey however we went through a few small villages and bypassed the motorway and we ended up in Bari with plenty of time. We had to get our rental car back before 1pm as this is when they shut for the whole weekend. So I don't know what we would have done if we were really caught up in the traffic. Probably had to pay for extra days but what to do with the car as we were getting on the train at 4pm !!!!!!
We wandered around the old town here in Bari stopping at a traditional wee underground restaurant. They did not have any menus, it was just a four course set menu which was all very delicious.
We went into a couple of the churches and the outside perimeter of the castle before returning to the station. We were lucky to have stored our bags at the station at a secure location. Also another thing I forgot to mention is that you have to pay for the toilets here. Some places you can get away with it if there is no-one manning the toilets and you don't think they deserve a tip for various reasons. Other times there is a bar that will only let you through if you put money in the slot or else there is a man there.
We had a 6.5 hour train ride which wasn't so bad however the air conditioning at the start was not strong enough against the heat of the sun streaming into the window. At some stations they turn the train off altogether therefore making it really unpleasant. We were in a carriage compartment with an Italian couple who were lovely and friendly and asking all about our holiday in very limited English but mostly Italian. Sherilyn was on a carriage two along from ours as she booked hers later and wasn't able to get ones next to us. We arrived into Rome about 1030. While walking to our accommodation everyone was still out eating their dinner. We had a short sleep before getting up early the next day heading to Cinque Terre.
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